Hello and Happy new years!
In some houses, light switches don't have a neutral wire. This is because 2-wire Romex cable (containing hot and neutral wires) is pulled through all the light fixture boxes in the ceilings only. After running cable through all the ceiling boxes, electricians simply pull one 2-wire Romex down to the switch boxes throughout the house. Once the switch legs are complete, all the lighting wire pulling is finished. They then make a second trip to install the fixtures and wire the switches.

Regarding your problem: Most likely, one 2-wire Romex (without a neutral) was pulled from the ceiling box to your now-removed switch, then run to the nearest outlet. This would have made both the light and outlet controlled by that single switch you removed. Typically, electricians used two switches to control the light switch and outlets separately. The neutrals needed for the switched outlets were run from another part of the same circuit so the outlets would function properly. This can get quite complicated to explain clearly.

Things to Check:

• Wire nut those two wires back together that were previously connected to the old switch. Then check the voltage at the outlets and light fixtures in those rooms that aren't currently working. You should get 110 volts on your duplex outlets if they were wired in to the switch, and hopefully the light will turn on. Often, the duplex outlet closest to the doorway is the one switched. Rooms like bedrooms and living rooms were commonly wired with this type of feature as extra.

Let me know if you have any questions.

I recently removed an old light switch that I was convinced had no power to it. After removing the switch and capping off both the black and white ends I loss power to some over head light and some receptacles. It was an old 2 wire switch and Had no voltage running crossed it when open or closed per my volt meter. Any idea what happened?

If you do not feel safe I would call a locally licensed electrician. That old Murry fusible fuse-box could have some serious problems due to age. But I would be looking into replacing it soon.

As far as the difference between neutral and ground in residential electrical wiring -

• The main feeder neutral is bonded at one point at the first main disconnecting means
• Every branch circuit ground (green) is mechanically bonded to all metal boxes and any metal housing throughout that entire circuit.

The neutral and ground eventually meetup bonding at one point only and that is at the first main disconnecting means.
These circuit parts do not differ operationally, even if they are running through a fusible or non-fusible panel.

If you need more answers let me know or post your question or concern here. We are open to helping everyone with home wiring issues.
Thanks for visiting

In my home I have a 70s 77-8 Arrow Hart Murray Fusible load center as my main panel and I just was hoping I could be informed of how the neutral and ground work in a circut for it because just looking into mine confuses me heck even a diagram would help just so I feel safer understanding it

Dryer circuit wire sizing and common methods to install. Get fast short answers.

Here's a revised version of the excerpt with improved clarity and tone:

To install wiring, you'll need the right tools and materials. If you'd like to learn more, you can explore the resources available on my other site at [https://electricalanswerman.com/](https://electricalanswerman.com/). Please note that registration on this site is not always active due to website design changes going on, though many answers have already been posted you can search through anytime. If you'd like to register, you can do that first and return here if needed. This is a new site, so content may be limited until more users contribute. To ask questions, you must sign up on this forum. This is a short-answer forum, while the other site serves as a long-answer resource. If you'd like private, paid assistance, simply mention your request in a comment. Thank you!

I am a retired Master Electrician currently living in Alabama. I have tested and passed licensing exams in Florida and the original comprehensive block exam for the City of Nashville, Tennessee, and subsequently operated a successful business for over 25 years in TN.

One important aspect of licensing that everyone should understand is that some states have discovered that lowering testing standards helps them maintain lower wages. Tennessee is one of the worst offenders in this regard. This practice benefits one of Tennessee's most lucrative industries—liability insurance companies—while also attracting new residents seeking affordable remodeling services. The state profits from this arrangement because lower contractor wages draw new residents looking for reduced costs in local services. However, these lower standards result in less experienced, lower-wage workers throughout the construction industry. Despite this, insurance companies in Tennessee charge contractors and homeowners only marginally more to protect against the additional significant liability created by these reduced standards.

Let me be clear: Tennessee's decision to lower its testing standards has created a dangerous situation for families who are completely unaware of this issue. To illustrate the severity of this problem, I was once called by friends after these changes were enacted to help with an issue on a jobsite. When I arrived, I discovered that his colleague was a newly licensed Tennessee electrician who was struggling to understand how to wire a 3-way switch—a fundamental task that any licensed electrician should master without difficulty. This incident alone speaks volumes about how much Tennessee prioritizes the safety of its citizens and anyone else living in local buildings.

Under the original comprehensive exam system, you had virtually no chance of passing without 6-10 years of full-time employment with a heavy industrial electrical contractor working under the direct supervision of one of their licensed electricians staying in good standing, plus obtaining an associate degree in engineering during those working years.

Most do not see how dangerous doing basic things has become. This is why I decided to try to help anyone who ask about wiring issues. I am trying to save lives really.

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Thanks!